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Kempsey - A River Town
Starring in Thomas Keneally’s novel A River Town, the dark blue Macleay River sashays around Kempsey from a source high in the Great Dividing Range. The monolithic mountains stand sentinel in the distance, changing colour with the light from blue to green, crimson and purple.
Red gold, towering cedar trees, first attracted European settlers in 1827 but this well-watered valley has been home to the Dunghutti Nation for millennia. English merchant Enoch Rudder established a private town in the 1830s and named it Kempsey. His old home site, now Rudder Park Lookout in East Kempsey, has panoramic views. The old water reservoir, built in the 1920s, has been converted into community radio station Tank FM.
Grazing, farming, dairying and merchants followed the timber industry and Kempsey prospered. Before a bridge forged the river, ferries linked East and South Kempsey to Central and West Kempsey and docked in front of Keneally’s grandparent’s old home and store.
Pleasant historic walks and scenic drives lead down memory lane and supply glimpses of Kempsey’s boom times through its magnificent heritage-listed buildings, including Central Kempsey’s marvellous post office built in 1886 and the Presbyterian School and Church. Farmers and graziers set the period scene when they walk by and dip their Akubra hat, a world-famous Aussie icon made right here in Kempsey.
West Kempsey’s main street is wide enough to accommodate bullock carts and is graced with delightfully-restored colonial buildings, including a court house built in 1859 and a post office built in 1879. Its hotels, churches, halls, station and show ground all date back to those earlier days.
For an in-depth look at the Macleay Valley Coast’s intriguing past head to the Macleay River Historical Society’s Museum and Settlers’ Cottage at South Kempsey, where life through the centuries is revealed in ever-changing displays and collections. World-renowned architect, Glenn Murcutt, designed the award-winning Kempsey Cultural Centre, which houses the museum, the Visitor Information Centre and the Dunghutti Ngaku Aboriginal Art Gallery.
The architecturally-stunning Slim Dusty Centre will also be located on the Pacific Highway at South Kempsey and when completed it will be ‘an iconic Australian experience built around the legendary country music icon and Australian country Music’.
Riverside Kempsey offers visitors a perfect picnic spot at Riverside Park and a range of cafe's, restaurants, takeaways, hotels, clubs, a movie theatre, specialty shops, art gallery, churches, horse racing track and greyhound track. For the health conscious there are squash courts, sporting fields, tennis courts, ten-pin bowling alley, boat ramps, picnic areas, children’s playgrounds, heated-swimming pool complex and an 18-hole golf course, complete with grazing kangaroos.
Quick tips around Kempsey:
- Marvel at unbeatable valley and river views at Rudder Park and Euroka lookouts.
- Walk the dog leash free behind the Kempsey Visitor Information Centre on the Pacific Highway at South Kempsey. For the safety and pleasure of the dog and other people please keep the dog on a leash around the car park and entrances to the buildings.
- Launch the boat at Kempsey Riverside Park or at Old Ferry Road.
- For a safe and enjoyable stay camp in designated camping areas.
- Take a half-hour leisurely drive west of Kempsey on a Winery Trail
See below map for all Kempsey accommodation, tour and other businesses
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